Bodoland is a treasure trove for travellers seeking natural beauty or cultural experiences. If you’re travelling any time soon, ditch the dreams of big malls or Michelin food. Instead, immerse in rustic brilliance.
One of the crowned possessions of Bodoland, and one that I had to fortune to visit briefly, is the famed Manas National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its lush forests and endangered species like the golden langur and the pygmy hog.
In my hour-long pitstop limited to the threshold of the park, I was spotted a pair of sunbirds, a solitary Indian peafowl calling from a distance, a Black-winged cuckooshrike on a treetop, and even one classic Manas rhinoceros in the far horizon.
While Manas remains on the outskirts, one can head down and explore Raimona National Park, a former lair for the militants which was known as the Ripu-Chirang Reserve Forest (RCRF). Situated in the heart of Bodoland and still in its infancy, here, you’ll find golden langurs showing off their antics, elephants always at-hand yet masterfully elusive, birds of incalculable species, shy deer, and lush trees in abundance.
The sight of golden langurs may come across as ordinary to the uninitiated eye but these luminous little runts are among the 25 most endangered primates in the world. Their numbers have dropped by as much as 60 per cent in Bhutan. The only other known population lives in Assam, where your observant narrator now roams.
Raimona is now also a natural habitat where reformed poachers seemingly work as conservationists, adding a unique dimension to the park’s story. Speaking to a couple of these ex-poachers, I learn of the government’s initiative and suchlike. The poachers seem to have backpedalled on their lives of gore and crime, and admittedly go so far as to encourage their still unreformed friends to reassess their lives.
While still wading my way through dust and gravel, owing to the untrodden paths of Raimona, we passed the Bhutan-India checkpost to reach River Sankosh. It flows near the Bhutan border, offering mesmerising views reminiscent of Pangong Tso Lake in Ladakh; the resemblance to Pangong Tso is so uncanny that a couple of my fellow visitors found themselves speaking about the Hindi movie “3 Idiots”, which features the lake in Ladakh at length. At this river, rafting is on the cards and positively imminent.
In Kokrajhar, history enthusiasts can pay tribute to Bodoland’s heroes at the Martyr’s Cemetery in Kokrajhar, a solemn space honouring those who laid down their lives in the region’s struggle for identity and peace. It houses 1,605 tombs inscribed with names and addresses of those who made the supreme sacrifice between 1987 and 2003. The cemetery also has bronze statues of the movement’s first martyrs.
Beyond its natural wonders, Bodoland is steadily making its mark as a centre for cultural and technological development. The Silk Park in the region highlights the craftsmanship of Bodo Eri silk, a handwoven fabric recently awarded the GI (Geographical Indication) tag. This recognition helps preserve traditional weaving techniques and supports local artisans. Notably, Muga silk, with its golden sheen, and Eri silk (a stable fiber with continuous filaments) are valued for its warmth and sustainability (silkworm rearing for both fabrics are considered environmentally friendly and carbon neutral), reflecting Assam’s rich craftsmanship. In the Silk Park, scientific silkworm rearing now also serves as the source of livelihood for many school dropouts.
For food enthusiasts, Bodoland offers a rich local spread, with Bodo-style pork delicacies cooked in bamboo shoots and peppered with indigenous herbs, creating flavours that linger long after the meal.
